Village guide · Northern Lake District · CA12
Keswick
The capital of the northern Lakes. A proper market town with good restaurants, an excellent market on Thursdays and Saturdays, Derwentwater at the bottom of the high street, and Skiddaw visible from most of it. This is where you come to base yourself for the northern fells.
Postcode
CA12 5JB
Market days
Thu & Sat
Mountain Festival
May
From Penrith by bus
35 min
About Keswick
Keswick sits in the northern Lake District on the River Greta, with Derwentwater at the foot of the town and Skiddaw rising directly to the north. It has been a market town since the 13th century. The Victorian tourism boom transformed it — the railway arrived in 1865, though the line has since closed, and the infrastructure built for that era is still visible in the Victorian B&Bs and hotels that line the main streets.
George Fisher’s outdoor shop on Borrowdale Road has been there since 1957 and is one of the best-stocked independent outdoor shops in England. Keswick’s main street has a good range of outdoor retailers, cafes, and restaurants, plus the market twice a week. It is a functional town as well as a tourist destination.
10 min walk from the market
Derwentwater
Not the largest lake — about 3 miles long — but the setting is exceptional. Catbells and the Newlands fells to the west, Borrowdale to the south, Skiddaw and Blencathra to the north. The Keswick Launch (CA12 5DJ) runs a regular circuit with seven stopping points. Worth doing at least once.
Friars Crag, a short walk from the town centre along the lake shore, gives the classic view of Derwentwater that has been painted and photographed for 200 years. John Ruskin described the view here as one of the three most beautiful in Europe. It is genuinely as good as the pictures suggest. Managed by the National Trust.
Walking from Keswick
Catbells
451m · 1.5 hrs return from Hawes EndThe walk. Extraordinary views over Derwentwater for relatively modest effort. The final scramble to the summit is hands-on but not technical. Access Hawes End by Keswick Launch. One of the best introductions to fell walking for beginners.
Latrigg
369m · 30 min from car parkDirectly above the town. Quick, accessible, and the summit gives a panoramic view of Skiddaw, Derwentwater, and the Borrowdale valley that surprises most people who do it. Start from the Latrigg car park (CA12 5JR, free). Good for early mornings in autumn.
Skiddaw
931m · 8 miles · Full dayThe fourth-highest fell in England. The tourist path from the Latrigg car park takes the direct line to the summit. Around 900 metres of ascent. A good long day with serious views across the northern Lakes.
Blencathra
868m · Via Hall's Fell RidgeThe dramatic alternative to Skiddaw. Hall's Fell Ridge is one of the finest ridge walks in the northern Lakes. The approach from Threlkeld (CA12 4TF) gives the best line. Harder than Skiddaw but significantly more interesting.
Where to Eat and Drink
Morrels
Best evening mealLake Road, CA12 5BX
Modern British, locally sourced, with a wine list that actually has thought put into it. The consistently recommended restaurant in Keswick.
The Square Orange
Best breakfastSt John's Street, CA12 5AG
The most reliable cafe in Keswick for breakfast and lunch. Full English breakfasts, good coffee, reliable food. Often busy — arrive early or expect a wait.
The Dog and Gun
Best pubLake Road, CA12 5AT
Proper Cumbrian pub food, real ale, and a layout that works for walkers and families. No pretensions, no disappointing food. The right pub.
Pheasant Inn
Worth the driveBassenthwaite Lake, CA13 9YE
About 6 miles north. Worth it for Sunday lunch — a proper Cumbrian country pub with food that matches.
What to See
Castlerigg Stone Circle
CA12 4RN · Free · National Trust
3 miles east of Keswick. 38 standing stones in a field with a 360-degree fell panorama. Neolithic, predating Stonehenge. Worth 30 minutes at any time of year.
Keswick Museum
Station Road, CA12 4NF · Free
Good collection covering local history, the pencil and graphite industry, and the area's literary connections — Wordsworth, Coleridge, and Southey all had connections here.
The Pencil Museum
Southey Works, CA12 5NG · Charged
The story of the world's pencil industry having its origins in the graphite deposits of Borrowdale is genuinely interesting. Worth an hour if it is raining.
Keswick Market
Market Place · Thu & Sat
Local producers with meat, cheese, and vegetables. The Saturday market is the bigger of the two. The Mountain Festival in May adds specialist stalls.
Getting There and Parking
By Bus
- • 554 from Penrith station — most direct route, 35 min
- • 555 from Windermere via Ambleside and Grasmere
- • No direct train. Penrith (WCML) is the nearest station.
Parking
- • Lakeside (CA12 5DJ) — large, near boat landing
- • Headlands (CA12 5ER) — short walk from market
- • Fills by 10am on summer weekends. Arrive before 9am.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is there to do in Keswick?+
Walking is the main activity — Catbells, Skiddaw, and Blencathra are within easy reach. Derwentwater lake cruises. The market on Saturday and Thursday. Good restaurants, outdoor shops, and the Keswick Museum. The Pencil Museum is niche but surprisingly interesting.
What is the best walk from Keswick?+
Catbells is the most popular and with good reason — excellent views over Derwentwater with relatively modest effort. The Latrigg walk above the town is shorter and good for a morning. For a serious day, Skiddaw via the tourist path or Blencathra via Hall's Fell Ridge are the main options.
Where should I stay in Keswick?+
Keswick has a wide range of accommodation from youth hostels to boutique hotels. The Lodore Falls Hotel on Derwentwater is the grand option. More central options include the Derwentwater Independent Hostel and many Victorian B&Bs on the main streets. Book well ahead for weekends and the Keswick Mountain Festival in May.
Is Keswick easy to get to without a car?+
Manageable but requires planning. There is no direct train to Keswick. The nearest station is Penrith (30 minutes by bus) or Windermere (buses run via Ambleside and Grasmere on the 555/X4/X5). The 554 bus from Penrith is the most direct public transport route.
When is the Keswick market?+
Keswick market is held every Thursday and Saturday in the Market Place. A traditional street market with local producers, crafts, and general goods. The Mountain Festival in May brings additional food and specialist markets. Saturday is the bigger of the two regular market days.
